Sunday, May 31, 2015

Kazakhstan (Almaty) May 2015

Map of Almaty, Kazakhstan

Total costs incurred (4 days) : Euro$20 + 16,706 Tenge + CNY510 = Rm715 (US$198)
Hostel (3 nights) : Euro$10 x 2 + 2,000 Tenge (Almaty Central Hostel-dorms)
Food: 1,491 Tenge
Metro: 240 Tenge
Tram: 80 Tenge
Trolley Bus: 160 Tenge
Taxi : 1,635 Tenge
Long distance bus (sleeper) : CNY460 (Urumqi>Almaty) + 11,100 Tenge (Almaty>Urumqi)
Sundries: CNY$50
Exchange Rates: US$1=180 Tenge; Euro$20= Rm4.07; CNY1=Rm0.585

Both Almaty & Astana were in my travel plan but I skipped Astana due to communication issue with my hostel.

My visit to Kazakhstan was braced with anxiety as it involved taking an overnight sleeper bus from Urumqi to Korgas, a Chinese border town, 3km from the Kazakh's border and then continuing the journey to Almaty.

The sleeper bus I took in Urumqi was full & over loaded with parcels & cartons of goods (stacked inside the luggage compartments along with passenger's bags & belongings) destined for Almaty. Given such scenario, I wasn't sure whether the bus was safe to travel in long distance ! In another instance, the co-driver of the bus collected from each passenger an extra CNY30-50 as 'welfare money" for passing the Kazakh's border post - I scratched my head on why this subtle payment as I had to pay a hefty CNY460 for a sleeper bus ticket (24 hrs drive) from Urumqi to Almaty. However, on my return from Almaty to Urumqi, no such payment was collected by our driver ! 

From Urumqi to Korgas, the highway was smooth and well maintained but on the Kazakh side, there was no highway so a slower ride but overall it was still a pleasant ride !

Due to an early Friday morning arrival (05.00) of our bus in Korgas bus terminal, we had ample time to have our breakfast at a row of shop houses in front of the bus terminal. Others took a morning stroll at a nearby garden to take some fresh air ! Also, there were free lance money changers at the Korgas bus terminal so I did change some money (US$100=18,000 Tenge) in order to pay for my food, transport & hostel stay in Almaty !

Vehicles & passengers queuing at both the Immigration complexes (China & Kazakh) for customs clearance and passport processing were bureaucratic and time consuming ! The large morning crowd (Friday) at the Chinese immigration counters became rowdy and this prompted the Chinese Immigration side to impose a control on the queue so that there was no jostling of people at the front line ! It took 30 mins for me to have my passport stamped - so be patient at all times !

At the Kazakh's side, a line of buses & vehicles were seen queuing at the front gate of the Immigration and it took two hours before our turn to enter - so another round of long waiting there. Although passport processing took 10-15 mins but unfortunately our bus was held up by the Kazakh's Customs due probably to goods clearance & duties problem. Guessed what, our entire passengers had to wait for 3 hrs before the bus was allowed to leave the Customs complex ! A few impatient ones decided to take an alternative transport option to Almaty. All in all for this black Friday, it took us more that half of the day to pass through both the Chinese & Kazakh border posts ! The fault lied squarely on the 2 bus drivers due mainly to greed for transporting an overload of goods at the expense of the passengers !

By the time our bus arrived in Almaty, it was well passed mid-night - what a "wonderful" start in my first day in Almaty ! A taxi tout offered to take me to my hostel for 3,000 tenge (US$17) for a 5km drive but after ringing my hostel, I managed to bring the price downed to 700 Tenge (US$3.80).

On the 2nd day, I did a walkabout near the Astana Square & park and took Metro to a few touristy places around town. I took public buses to the Medeu Olympic ice skating stadium - highly recommended & a very worthwhile visit when you are in Almaty. For those who love nature & outdoor activities & if you have the time, you could visit the Big Almaty Lake, Alphine Park, Turgen Gorge, Charyn Canyon etc.

I was very impressed with the internal décor of some of the metro stations in Almaty - you paid 80 Tenge (US$0.45) for each ride regardless of the number of stops ! 

A hard earned visit indeed for my first visit to Kazakhstan - no regret at all coming here ....

1) Medeu - The Olympic ice skating stadium in Almaty, Kazakhstan a candidate city in 2022 !


2) Metro underground stations in Almaty, Kazakhstan


3) Astana Square, Almaty, Kazakhstan


4) Park named after 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, Almaty, Kazakhstan 



5) Almaty Train Station 2 - daily train services to Astana, capital of Kazakhstan


6) Sairan Lake - near the Sairan International Bus Station

The snowy Tien Shan mountain
in the background

7) Border crossing Bishkek/Almaty - after immigration clearance (takes about 15 mins), minibus waits for passengers at a nearby petrol kiosk to continue its journey to Almaty 


8) Countryside scenery from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan to Almaty, Kazakhstan


9) Countryside scenery from Almaty, Kazakhstan to Korgas, China


10) My morning breakfast at the Sairan bus station


11) My dinner at a restaurant midway between Korgas & Almaty - a 1/2 hr rest for passengers & drivers




Fried beef noodles, Kazakh style
600 Tenge (US$3.30)

No comments:

Post a Comment